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Day:2
Date:05/01/2005
Great Glen Way map
Glen Nevis

I woke up to a grey Scotland morning, but sneaking out of my bunk and looking out the window I noticed a few patches of blue sky. After waking up Grant, we walked back into Fort William, mostly along the River Nevis. It was a pleasant morning walk alongside the river and grazing pastures.

In town I had my first experience with baked beans for breakfast at the Safeway. Fueled up, we shopped for lunch items for the next five days, then headed outside to find the start of the Great Glen Way.

Southern Terminus

Across the parking lot we found the ruins of the old fort and the southern terminus marker for the Great Glen Way. At 10:30 am we set off for the first leg of our walk.


Great Glen Way

Heading out of the city we walked past a McDonalds and through a few apartment complexes. A small dose of nature followed with a walk through some woods alongside the River Lochy. However, we were soon back in the suburbs, after walking over the Soldiers Bridge. At least we were walking near the shore with views of Ben Nevis behind us.

Caledonian Canal

Heading out of the city we walked past a McDonalds and through a few apartment We passed another group of trekkers, a group from Newcastle who we would see several times again. We all stopped at the first set of locks for the Caledonian Canal. A sailboat was just entering the locks, possibly starting the full trip from the Atlantic Ocean waters to the North Sea. We stayed around long enough to watch the operation of the first lock.

Caledonian Canal

For the remainder of the day, Grant and I would walk along the east side of the canal. The scenery became more rural, but the walking was unvaried along the flat and wide path. A passing boat was an exciting event.


Neptune's Staircase

A series of 8 closely spaced locks known as Neptune's Staircase provided the major point of interest on this first day. This series of locks provided the largest change in elevation for the canal.

After the locks it began to drizzle and the wind picked up. Grant and I located a log to sit down on and enjoy a late lunch. A few others walkers passed us while we smeared peanut butter on pita bread.

Canal and river

The rains came down intermittently and occasionally hard, but never for two long. Thankfully, the scenery began to vary along with the weather. The River Lochy cut near the canal and our pathway became a narrow slit of land separating the two. Views of the Great Glen valley running north with the broad sweep of the river in the foreground occupied our eyes.

Swing bridge at Moy

Our last landmark of the day was the swing bridge at Moy. Just like the canal locks earlier in the day, we timed our arrival well to witness the bridge in action. A lady emerged from the hut just off the path and hand cranked one side of the bridge open.

Just past the swing bridge, we reached the paved road that would take us to Spean Bridge. We stopped here for another break in a light drizzle, when a biking Scot pulled up and chatted with us. He was biking the Great Glen Way with his wife over 3 days. He was happy to be outside and the rain didn't concern him, "It's not like you can get any wetter!" he exclaimed. He also told us about his walk of the West Highland Way a few years before, "We must have spent 600 Pounds at the pubs! But it was for charity, you know." His enthusiasm was infectious, but his wife seemed to be immune. She finally road up, looking a bit like a drowned rat and none to pleased with the day's ride.

Commando Memorial

Grant and I left the couple and the Great Glen Way for a 3-mile walk into the town of Spean Bridge. The rains continued intermittently, but at least our walk was broken up by a visit to the Commando Memorial.

With a few hours to kill before our bus back to Fort William, Grant and I dried out in a coffee/gift shop. When the shop closed at 5, we had to move down the street to the Commando Bar ("Non-residents welcome.") and enjoy a pint and a football game on the TV.

Back in Fort William we headed downtown to the Grog and Gruel for some more ale and a tex-mex dinner. A three-mile walk back to Glen Nevis finished our exertions for the day and increased our day's distance to nearly 20 miles.

Back at the hostel I enjoyed a wide-ranging conversation with two trekkers from the Netherlands who had just finished the West Highland Way. We discussed mountains around the world, traveling, US versus British versus European Union currency prices and units of measure.

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