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I woke up to a grey Scotland morning, but sneaking out of my bunk and looking out the
window I noticed a few patches of blue sky. After waking up Grant, we walked back into
Fort William, mostly along the River Nevis. It was a pleasant morning walk alongside
the river and grazing pastures.
In town I had my first experience with baked beans for breakfast at the Safeway. Fueled
up, we shopped for lunch items for the next five days, then headed outside to find the
start of the Great Glen Way.
Across the parking lot we found the ruins of the old fort and the southern terminus
marker for the Great Glen Way. At 10:30 am we set off for the first leg of our walk.
Heading out of the city we walked past a McDonalds and through a few apartment
complexes. A small dose of nature followed with a walk through some woods alongside
the River Lochy. However, we were soon back in the suburbs, after walking over the
Soldiers Bridge. At least we were walking near the shore with views of Ben Nevis
behind us.
Heading out of the city we walked past a McDonalds and through a few apartment
We passed another group of trekkers, a group from Newcastle who we would see several
times again. We all stopped at the first set of locks for the Caledonian Canal. A sailboat
was just entering the locks, possibly starting the full trip from the Atlantic Ocean waters
to the North Sea. We stayed around long enough to watch the operation of the first lock.
For the remainder of the day, Grant and I would walk along the east side of the canal.
The scenery became more rural, but the walking was unvaried along the flat and wide
path. A passing boat was an exciting event.
A series of 8 closely spaced locks known as Neptune's Staircase provided the major point
of interest on this first day. This series of locks provided the largest change in elevation
for the canal.
After the locks it began to drizzle and the wind picked up. Grant and I located a log to sit
down on and enjoy a late lunch. A few others walkers passed us while we smeared
peanut butter on pita bread.
The rains came down intermittently and occasionally hard, but never for two long.
Thankfully, the scenery began to vary along with the weather. The River Lochy cut near
the canal and our pathway became a narrow slit of land separating the two. Views of the
Great Glen valley running north with the broad sweep of the river in the foreground
occupied our eyes.
Our last landmark of the day was the swing bridge at Moy. Just like the canal locks
earlier in the day, we timed our arrival well to witness the bridge in action. A lady
emerged from the hut just off the path and hand cranked one side of the bridge open.
Just past the swing bridge, we reached the paved road that would take us to Spean Bridge.
We stopped here for another break in a light drizzle, when a biking Scot pulled up and
chatted with us. He was biking the Great Glen Way with his wife over 3 days. He was
happy to be outside and the rain didn't concern him, "It's not like you can get any
wetter!" he exclaimed. He also told us about his walk of the West Highland Way a few
years before, "We must have spent 600 Pounds at the pubs! But it was for charity, you
know." His enthusiasm was infectious, but his wife seemed to be immune. She finally
road up, looking a bit like a drowned rat and none to pleased with the day's ride.
Grant and I left the couple and the Great Glen Way for a 3-mile walk into the town of
Spean Bridge. The rains continued intermittently, but at least our walk was broken up by
a visit to the Commando Memorial.
With a few hours to kill before our bus back to Fort William, Grant and I dried out in a
coffee/gift shop. When the shop closed at 5, we had to move down the street to the
Commando Bar ("Non-residents welcome.") and enjoy a pint and a football game on the
TV.
Back in Fort William we headed downtown to the Grog and Gruel for some more ale and
a tex-mex dinner. A three-mile walk back to Glen Nevis finished our exertions for the
day and increased our day's distance to nearly 20 miles.
Back at the hostel I enjoyed a wide-ranging conversation with two trekkers from the
Netherlands who had just finished the West Highland Way. We discussed mountains
around the world, traveling, US versus British versus European Union currency prices
and units of measure.
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