Seneca Rocks: Oct 18th 2006

"This route is continuous and exposed, always exciting but never outrageous: a classic."

That's the guidebook description of the route Ecstasy, the route we I found myself ascending on Wednesday morning. JJ shouted down a running commentary on his gear placements as he climbed above me. Having me think about the consequences of falling or friction from the rope dragging through carabiners as the route turned right or left was one of the morning's objectives.

I would follow the 3 pitches of Ecstasy, learning by observing JJ's own gear placements and decisions. I found the first belay ledge to be a comfortable stance with a great view of the Southern Pillar and the fall colors. JJ began the second pitch after taking my camera.

The second pitch ended with a small ledge, too small to comfortably stand on. The alternative was to hang in your harness, completely putting faith in the anchors and enjoying the view down between your legs. I stared at some rusty old pitons sharing the cracks with our modern cams and tried to concentrate on the beauty of the fall season.

Once JJ reached the top of the climb and pulled in the slack, I dismantled the anchor and gingerly stepped right with plenty of air beneath my heels and headed straight up. As JJ snapped pictures of my ascent, I slowly reached the top.

A short scramble brought us to the rappel where we practiced rappelling with an injured climber. The second rappel down required us to thread ourselves between two trees.

Most of the rest of the day I spent mock-leading the first pitch of Ecstasy, or variations of it. With JJ belaying me via a top rope, I would climb up placing protection and clipping a trailing rope into the anchors. Once at the top, I'd build my own anchor and then JJ would climb up to inspect my work. Rappelling back down in tandem, he'd discuss each piece with me.

The day nearly over, we took in a final climb of the first pitch of Totem, then I asked to practice one more belay-escape sequence.

Unfortunately, I couldn't stay through the weekend for the guide service's end of season party or the town's chili cook-off. But I'm certainly leaving the option open for next year.