Kentucky Arches Ultra
-A Sweep's Tale
After completing the Knobstone Ultra in the spring, I cast about looking for other ultramarathons I could attempt. Other adventures interfered, but kept me in shape until November. Herb Hedgecock's Kentucky Arches run had all the attributes I was looking for: scenic course, generous cut-off times and nearby. Since I'm still more interested in just completing the distance than my time, I volunteered to sweep the course. I would follow the last runners, remind them of the cut-off times, watch for any injured runners and remove the temporary course markings. The mix of completing the course and volunteering my assistance really appeals to me.
I left work at noon on Friday and found an open spot at the Kroomer Ridge Campground. After setting up I chatted with a touring cyclist who had left Louisville on Monday for a 5 day, 250 mile bike across Kentucky. He had just relocated to the state from Michigan and had one week before starting his new job. Sounds like a great way to learn about a new place.
Our registration dollars bought us a buffet dinner Friday night at Natural Bridge State Resort Park. I greeted Herb and he handed over a handcrafted mug and personalized sweater. I found a seat in the crowd of grizzled ultra-runners, each clad in race shirts of 30, 50 or 100 mile events. The Knobstone doesn't provide shirts, so I had no ultra-badge attire, and I didn't want to embarrass myself with a puny marathon shirt.
Luckily, I had sat next to Tom, who recognized me from the Knobstone and even puffed me up by saying how much he enjoyed my Knobstone report. He had recently moved to Louisville and we discussed trails in the area. As we ate and more runners showed up I recognized and greeted more Tecumseh marathon and Knobstone vets.
After Herb gave us some final words about the course ("No one will get lost", "There are 9 elevation adjustments", "You will get your feet wet"), the group broke up and I returned to the campground looking forward to a long sleep. Unfortunately, a group of college students had arrived in my absence and had brought hand drums and a guitar. Even worse, they only remembered the first verse of any song they attempted. I tried to ignore the "Top 40-Abridged", but with no success. At least they stopped around 11:30.
At 3 am, I was woken up by someone walking around in the dry leaves. A late arrival was setting up his tent at the site right behind me. I do hope I didn't disturb him too much when I woke up at 5 am and broke camp.
The starting line was a parking lot just outside of Natural Bridge Park. As night gave way to twilight Herb sent 70 runners off right at 7 am. The course immediately starts uphill, climbing toward Natural Bridge. I fell into the back of the crowd trying to guess who I would be following most of the day. Above, the first runners let out shouts when they reached the Arch and saw the sunrise. We passed under the arch, then squeezed through "Fat Man's Misery", a narrow slot not much more than 12 inches across and suddenly found ourselves atop the bridge. Early red light illuminated cliffs ahead and the sun was barely poking above the trees. Herb had timed the start well.
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We continued along the ridge top, passing the "Sky Lift", a chair lift to bring non-hikers to the bridge. One runner was easily strolling this first loop with his wife, so when he assured me he would start running after parting with her, I passed him and began tailing Vicki. I introduced myself as we worked our way down a steep set of stairs, slick with wet leaves. Vicki was careful on these steep descents, but ran well on the flats so we hung with several other runners for a while.
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Unfortunately, it looked like we were going to come into the first aid station (also the starting/finishing point) a little past the un-enforced cut-off time. Herb updated me with my new orders. I was to follow the last runners to aid station #3 and since they would likely not arrive there before the cut-off, they would turn around, cutting off a 6-7 mile loop, and proceed to the finish. I would wait at the aid station (which serves double duty as #3 and #4) for the cut-off time for anyone who started the loop to continue on the course. Then I would proceed to sweep to the finish. Unfortunately, that meant I would only get to do 27 miles today, but it also took off any pressure for me to hustle runners ahead toward cut-offs they couldn't make.
I left to catch up with the back of the pack, which had fluctuated out of the aid station. I chatted with a runner who wore a ripped Tyvek jacket from a Texas race. I joked with him about the jacket and if he would try to repair it with duct tape. He didn't think it was worth the cost, and I laughed at the idea of 6 cents worth of duct tape being worth more than the jacket.
I began following Vicki and Nick on the out and back section to visit Whittleton Arch where the directions said we had to run up under the arch and touch one of the rocks, then head back. As we headed up the valley toward the Red River Gorge we three began learning about each other. Vicki has been doing ultras for many years, but has slowed down from her days as a 3:20 marathoner. Nick is newer to the sport, but still has attempted 100 milers already and taken part in many races. Both knew that they'd likely have to skip part of the course, but they still enjoyed being out and running on this beautiful course on a great day. I learned a lot from both of them as we traversed the gorge.
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Cresting the hill we crossed the Mountain Parkway on an overpass and entered the Red River Gorge section. After passing aid station #2 we descended into the first of many valleys in the Gorge and I started collecting the pink ribbons marking the course. We passed the Daniel Boone Hut, which I had to take the 10 foot side trail to see.
After crossing a small creek we started climbing upward. We came across our first hikers of the day, a group of 8 with at least as many dogs as people. A few view points gave us a clear picture of Military Wall across the valley. Once we intersected the Gray's Arch trail I was on more familiar ground. I had spent 3 days backpacking on these trails the previous November.
Heading down we were rewarded with Gray's Arch and a long descent to the valley bottom. Two more ridges remained to be crossed before we would begin a long valley section and reach the 3rd aid station. Once we reached the valley we started seeing other runners again who were headed the other direction after completing the outer loop. Tom stopped to chat for a bit as I took down the flags to keep returning runners from going the way we came. As we worked our way toward the third aid station I think I got to see every runner I knew on the course.
After crossing the second suspension bridge, this one over the Red River, we reached the third aid station, and as predicted, we came in about 30 minutes after the cutoff. Vicki and Nick refueled then headed back the way they came, back up the valley then onto another route through the Gorge to aid station #5.
I refueled at a more leisurely pace, then sat down to await the 2pm cut-off for runners to finish the loop. I chatted with a two runners who were dropping with injuries, watched a constant stream of emergency vehicles pass by and enjoyed some pumpkin cake offered by a volunteer.
When 2 pm rolled around, I took off, back across the suspension bridge, removing ribbons on the way. Running between ribbons I soon caught the last runners out of aid station #4 and settled in to their pace. I joked about "going back to work" each time a ribbon appeared ahead. Soon my pockets were bulging with pieces of pink tape. A young couple out for a day hike looked astonished and exclaimed "You're taking down the ribbons?". They were following the ribbons and thought they were a permanent feature of the trails. I got to enjoy the look on their faces when I explained the race and how we had to take down the ribbons right away to appease the land managers. As always, I got a particular pleasure from explaining how far we were running today.
Just after passing a trail crew out removing downed trees from the trail I heard quick foot steps behind me and the question "are you Arches runners?". The runner behind me, DJ, had reached aid station #4 just 4 minutes after I'd left, and talked the volunteers into letting her go. Thankfully, she was able to stay on the de-ribboned course by asking other people which way the runners had gone. I let her slip ahead and offered her some of my extra water since she'd run dry. As we reached the top of the last significant climb (er, "elevation adjustment") DJ ran ahead and we caught up with Vicki. She was still moving well, but wanted to drop out when she reached the last aid station. She wanted me to pass so I could keep up with my new runners, but first I made sure she passed one critical junction.
At our last aid station I took on more water then we headed out right at the 4pm cut-off time. Vicki was only minutes behind as we left the Gorge. The runners I was tailing, Wes and his wife, now had no more cut-offs to beat, and were willing to take it easy down to the finish. We rolled along chatting and enjoying the cooler air and the approach of sunset. A few minutes after 5 we crossed the finish suspension bridge again and reached the finish line.
Unfortunately, one runner was unaccounted for. Bub had left aid station #4, but I hadn't seen him and he never checked in at station #5. He didn't carry a map and we figured he was lost. His friends drove off to check the perimeter of the Gorge to look for him. Thankfully, he showed up shortly after they left after walking out to a road and hitching a ride back to the finish.
With that cleared off I said goodbye to Herb and let him know how much I enjoyed the day. An hour later I was showering in a hotel in Lexington then hunting down a large dinner at a Mexican restaurant.
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