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The top of New Hampshire:
Mount Washington
Elevation:6,288 feet
Location:south-west of Gorham, NH
Date:9/21/2003

I knew I would reach the summit of Mount Washington, but I was unsure how. I had two easy hiking days to rest my knee in Vermont, but I was also worried about killing my knee on this one hike and being unable to hike up Katahdin. I was strongly considering reaching the summit of Mount Washington by the toll road or the cog railway.

Looking down the ravine
Looking into the ravine.

Killing time in the White Mountain National Forest visitors center, I saw a simple black and white aerial view of Mount Washington from the east. The two ravines, Tuckerman on the left and Huntington on the right showed clearly as huge troughs cleaved from this broad mountain. It looked amazing, and I knew I wanted to hike up those ravines.

Before injuring my knee, my goal had been to climb up through Huntington ravine and descend via the Lionshead or Tuckerman routes. Now I felt if I was going to accomplish this, I would need to settle on the gentler ascent up Tuckerman.

Just after sunrise I arrived at the AMC's Pinkham Notch center, fortified with 2 ibuprofens and a knee swaddled in an ACE bandage I passed beyond this full service trail head and started up the wide Tuckerman's Ravine trail. I concentrated on hiking slowly and steadily, watching every footfall making sure I didn't rush myself or twist my knee.

The AMC's guidebook says to allow 4 hours and 15 minutes to reach the summit on this trail. I was willing to give myself 5 hours and make sure I took it easy on the way up.

The morning was clear and I was surprised not to see anyone else out on this weekend morning. Before too long I had reached the Hermit Lake shelter and saw a few overnight campers in the lean-tos.

Just above Hermit Lake the trail opens up to wide views of the ravine and the steep headwall. A multi-threaded waterfall cascaded down the center of the headwall, as the early pre-autumn sunlight lit up the valley accenting the golden birch leaves and shining off the water moistened rocks.

Grand views of the headwall
Grand views of the headwall in Tuckerman's Ravine.

The trail headed straight for the waterfalls, then scrambled up the rocks to the right, and traversed across the headwall providing beautiful views of the cascades beside me, the Boot Spur ridge and the Carter range in the east.

Just below the falls
Just below the falls in Tuckerman's Ravine.

Close-up of one of the falls
Along side the falls on the Tuckerman trail.

Upon reaching the top of the headwall, the trail turns to the right and begins to pick its way over rocks and boulders - an easy class 2 scramble. Looking up I could see some red posts near the top of the rise, which I assumed was another trail junction and signposts.

At the top of the ravine
View into Tuckerman's Ravine from the top of the headwall.

While I climbed up, following the trail of blazes and cairns, the clouds had risen from the valleys and begun to circle their defenses around the mountain. Before reaching the clouds, the hard work of hiking uphill in the morning sun in surprisingly windless conditions had me sweating and applying sun block.

As the clouds thickened further, a slight breeze carried the unmistakable smell of the coal-fired cog train, and I realized I was getting close to the summit. Shortly, I heard a car honk and realized I was returning to civilization after my scenic and peaceful climb up the ravine. Instead of being angry at these intrusions, I just smiled, I was happy to have made the climb. I knew what awaited me at the summit, and had nearly taken the same motorized routes. Instead I had just finished one of the more beautiful hikes I'd ever taken. It really is the journey and not the destination.

Without any more warning I found myself steeping up and into a parking lot. As I finished the hike to the true summit, I passed above the cloud layer and knocking on the door of the "Home of the World's Worst Weather" I discovered that the worst weather wasn't home. The sun was shinning and the winds were only 15-20 mph, enough to add a light fleece jacket and windbreaker, but not enough to bring out every layer I'd packed.

Looking around from the summit all I could see was the summit buildings (including some large red instruments I had mistaken lower down for sign posts) and a ring of clouds, just higher than all the other mountains, but still below Mount Washington. Looking at my watch, I found I had reached the summit in 2 hours and 30 minutes. And my knee felt fine.

At Mount Washington's summit
At the summit of Mount Washington.

I explored the visitor's center and found a healthy stock of "Old Man of the Mountain" paraphernalia, none of which was discounted. I also noticed the comaraderie between hikers at the summit, those shouldering packs and marked by their boots received nods of recognition from other hikers and we all ignored the car and train tourists.

Skyline trail
On the Skyline Trail.

I spent about an hour on the most full service summit of any of the highpoints waiting for the clouds to clear. When it became apparent that the clouds had more patience than I, I setup back down the Tuckerman Ravine trail, back through the clouds until I reached the headwall.

I took more time to enjoy the walk down, taking photographs of the waterfalls and chatting with fellow hikers. However, I as passed the Hermit Lake shelter I noticed a real change, being later in the day these people couldn't be headed for the summit. Instead, they were just out for a leisurely Sunday afternoon walk to Hermit Lake. Fewer of these hikers stopped to talk or even made eye contact. Unlike those you meet higher on a mountain who form a hiking brotherhood of those willing to work for enjoy the wilderness, these people might have well been in their cars driving down the street for all the acknowledged others. A few groups even crowded the trail so much I had to squeeze to one side so 4 of them could pass abreast.

I was relieved to return to the Pinkham Notch visitor's center, take a shower and ask the workers for the best routes for Mount Adams.

The next day I woke up even early trying to beat the early morning cloud build up, and headed out up the Skyline trail to the summit of Mount Adams. The clouds were still building when I reached Mount Adams, but I did get a few views across the Great Gulf to Mount Washington, still standing serine above the clouds.

Mount Washington viewed from the summit of Mount Adams
Mount Washington viewed from the summit of Mount Adams.

Tuesday's forecast called for thunderstorms, and I wanted to rest my knee further before Katahdin, so I fled New Hampshire for a day in Acadia National Park and then headed on to Katahdin.

Heading towards Mount Madison
Mount Madison from the slopes of Mount Adams.

Heading down the Valley Way
Heading down the Valley Way trail.
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