I woke up with a little headache but was confident it would be gone again after my first cup of coffee. I had slept much better last night, waking up once in the middle of the night. I decided then to change the direction I was sleeping on the bunk, as an experiment to ensure that my headache wasn't caused by a sloping platform. My continuing headache convinced me that altitude was the root cause.

At 9am we walked up the rocky path to a smooth section of the glacier we'd identified the day before. We passed a few hours practicing walking in our crampons, ice axe self- arrests and rope team travel. A group of visiting Columbians came by, walking and sliding over the glacier in their tennis shoes.

After a light lunch down in the hut, we organized our gear for tonight's summit attempt. I'm hopeful for good weather, since the last two days have seen clear mornings and clouds have only built up later, when we should be off the glacier.