Alpine Ice: July 15th 2006

"Show me your ice tools."

Joseph Anderson (my instructor for the next 4 days) reviews my two duffle bags of gear that I hauled in from Indiana. Everything appears to be up to spec, so I busy myself with purchasing a few fuel canisters while he finishes the paper work.

During a quick stop at his house to pick up some additional ice screws I get to meet his oldest son who tells me about his horse riding camp and get a brief introduction to his visiting parents and dog.

All tasks done we head east for Mount Baker discussing our climbing backgrounds: trips to South America, working for other guide services, previous American Alpine Institute classes, trips to India, future goals, etc.

From the trailhead we head slowly upward and deeper into the woods. We pass a few creeks while Joseph cheers me with the guides alternative names for our evening's campsite: Dagoba system or Mirkwood. Soon we've reached Harrison camp, the name the forest service might insist upon.

The place is drier than I would expect, but Joseph assures me the other names are apt descriptions earlier in the season. Another AAI group is just packing up and we have a wealth of tent sites to choose from.

Once camp has been established, we take our day packs and head down the ridge to the lower portion of the Coleman Glacier. The glacier ice is dry and grey, having lost all the winter's snow. Seracs (large ice blocks) will provide a vertical playground for the rest of the day.

We quickly review french technique (walking in crampons), ways of holding the ice axe and soon move on to rappelling and multi-pitch climbing. Joseph leads a few short pitches of ice climbing on the seracs which I then follow and practice removing the ice screws.

The session over, we return to camp and start dinner preparations. Another AAI group has arrived and is reviewing knots and rope work at the camp. After eating I stop by to chat with them and then turn in.