AMTL part II: June 14, 2007

After another short round of morning frisbee we hiked down to the glacier, stepping over some sleeping college students who had bedded down in their sleeping bags on the trail the night before. Joseph led us toward the serac fall, where he and I had spent some time the previous year ice climbing.

Before using our axes, Joseph reviewed crampon technique, having us walk up, down and traverse steeper sections of ice relying our our footing to stay upright. Then we were allowed one axe and practiced several grips on the ax's shaft or head.

Finally we moved to a serac's large face which would make an excellent climbing area. Joseph led up two different routes to put in top rope anchors with ice screws and allow us to practice vertical climbing. We were pushed to try more efficient methods of climbing (using fewer swings to move upward) and climbed without leases on the axes to practice traverses.

Joseph then let me lead on of the routes with the ice screws already placed so I only had to clip them on the way up. Next he allowed me to do a real lead, placing all the screws as I climbed up. I felt far better than I had last year when I'd done my first ice lead in this same spot. My technique felt much better and I didn't get sloppy toward the top. I credit some of the time I spent ice climbing in Durango this last winter with the improvement - a trip Joseph had suggested after last year to improve my skills.

Unfortunately, when I topped out and went to clip the anchors I noticed that the sun had started melting the ice screws out. They were each sitting in a conical pit and I tugged the whole anchor out with one had by pulling straight up. I tried not to tell Mike all the gory details, since he'd been the last person to lower off this anchor, but it was probably just solid enough for a sideways pull like Mike had put on it. I reset the screws into fresh ice and lowered off.

We were quitting early today, not just to keep the sun from melting out our anchors, but Mike, Joseph and I planned to attempt a climb of Mount Baker starting very early the next morning. After dinner we discussed the timing of our event, guided by the route plan Mike and I had been working on and determined to leave camp at 2:30 am. Joe would stay back and take a rest day.