AMTL part II: June 13, 2007

Bugs turned out to be much worse this year than last. Mosquitoes, biting flies and gnats all made their presence known as soon as we left our tents. Mike resorted to a headnet to keep his sanity, while I just wore clothes they couldn't bite through and tried to keep them from landing on my face. At least I had a ton of fresh blueberries accompany breakfast.

The frisbee actually made an appearance in camp this morning while we were waiting for each other to finish packing. Game time over, we hiked down to the Coleman glacier's low arm below our camp. Joseph spent some time talking about glacier features: moraines, crevasses, and seracs.

Joseph then led us toward a medial moraine hunting for some large crevasses we could use for rescue practice. Mike and I roped together as if we were a climbing pair, then I jumped into a crevasse relying on Mike to arrest the fall with an ice axe, then build an anchor in the snow. During this simulation Mike was also tied to a backup line, so if he failed to catch me I wouldn't end up wedged in the bottom of the crevasse. Still, it was exciting to leap in. After building the anchor, Mike would construct a 6 to 1 haul system and hoist me out of the crevasse.

The crevasse was wet and cold so I'd bundled up before leaping in. Still, it was clouding up as I tried to listen in on the action above me. Finally, the rope started inching upward, but as I gained a better view of the sky I could see darker clouds approaching. As my head came out a crack of thunder let loose from the heavens and Joseph yelled at me to climb out of the crevasse and run. Everyone scattered but I first had to untie from the rope then grab my rain jacket and join the others as they fled to the rocks nearby and crouched down. We stayed huddled for 30 minutes or so, trying to think non-conductive thoughts as the rain came down and thunder and lightning took possession of the skies above.

Eventually, we judged it safe to return to the crevasse and continue with the next step. Mike would now go into the crevasse while Joe practiced the same rescue.

Joseph then had Joe slide into the crevasse while I caught his fall and built an anchor. However, instead of just hauling Joe out, he wanted me first to rappel down and connect a second line to Joe, then use that line to haul him up after ascending the rope back out of the crevasse myself.

Finally, Mike got to practice that same scenario with me taking another dive into the crevasse. I didn't end up as far down this time, which kept me drier, as the sun had come out and was really melting the snow walls and dripping water everywhere.

Since we had a couple of anchors setup, we finished off the day lowering each other into the crevasse and ice climbing back out.

Mike and I lamented that we hadn't packed in more beer that night at Harrison Camp. The mosquitoes were as bad as ever and we fled into our tents early as another AAI guide and client showed up and a large group of University students on a geology field trip.