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AMTL part II: June 10, 2007

Eightmile Rock

I must finally be on Pacific Time, I slept in until 5:45! Our approach hike this morning was much easier as we just walked out of the campground and along the nearby stream to Eightmile Rock. We started the day with Joseph leading up Classic Crack, a 5.8+, that spit out Mike, Joe and I. Thankfully, we were on a top rope with no fall potential. At one point I managed to wedge my hand to well into a constriction in the crack. Trying to move upward I discovered that I couldn't free my hand without hanging on the rope and using my right arm to try and pull out the stuck left hand. About the time I was wondering if the medical kit had a bone saw, the hand finally popped loose and I managed to continue the climb.

Mike on Twin Cracks

After that debacle, Joseph let me think about leading the climb to the right, Twin Cracks, which was supposed to be a little easier. After looking at the opening moves up close, I backed off not ready to commit. I second guessed my lack of commitment until I watched Joseph struggle with some cam placements on the route. My decision was confirmed when I followed and took a short fall higher up on the route, but safely protected by Joseph's top rope.

Since I'd been through some of the rescue scenarios before (both with Joseph and at Seneca Rocks last fall), he had me work with Mike and Joe on those skills while the other was fighting up Twin Cracks. Since the climbs were now in the sun I didn't mind the rescue duty and being able to hide in the shade of some ponderosas while helping Mike and Joe.

Tandem rappel

Camp was close enough that we could return there for lunch. For the afternoon we left off any serious climbing and spent the whole time working through the rescue situations. From the top of Eightmile Rock, we anchored to a large ponderosa and both Joseph and I played injured climbers for Mike and Joe. Next, Joseph demonstrated a more complex scenario where he had to rappel down two pitches with an unconscious climber. Mike and I rappelled alongside to watch.

Joseph decided to test me by having me go through the exact same scenario with Mike acting injured. I managed to get us down to the ground safely and we ended the day back at our campsite and well supplied with beer after Mike made a run into town.


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