AMTL part II: June 9, 2007

Joseph returns early in the morning and I get to greet his mother whom I met last year as she drops him off. Then we set off in the van for Leavenworth - a three hour drive away on the drier, east side of the Cascade mountains. Along the way we dig out the ropes and gear to continue practicing knots and rescue scenarios.

Once at Leavenworth we park alongside the road and complete the short hike to Mountaineers Dome. This rock formation is popular with training classes run by the Mountaineers club, hence the name. Today we had it to ourselves and used the two main cracks (Right and Left Cracks) to practice crack climbing techniques, mock-leads and real leads. Of course we also ran through the belay-escape scenarios again.

In the afternoon we suffer up a longer, hotter approach to Gilvers Dome. Joseph leads up the first 20 feet, past a difficult crack on the route known as Gilvers Crack. I follow up and sit at the anchors enjoying the view until both Mike and Joe have joined us.

Joseph now hands over the rack of climbing gear and offers the "sharp end" of the rope to me. This second pitch of Gilvers Crack is something of a local classic, and with a rating of 5.7 would be the hardest climbing I'd led yet. I'm also a horrible crack climber. In crack climbing you slot your hand or fist into a crack either looking for a constriction to pinch shut on your hand or actively cam your fist in the crack to hold you upright. Similar moves are designed to crush your toes.

My feet were quite painful by the end of the pitch and I gladly traversed away from the crack to a pair of bolts to clip into. As I belayed Joseph, Mike and Joe up I could finally look around and take in the views and enjoy the exposure that tried to terrify me on the way up - and might have succeeded had I not be focused on the pain I was putting my feet through.

The next pitch was a little easier and Joseph offered the lead to Mike, however it was also getting late so he declined and we rappelled back to the base for the easier hike out.

The evening sees us enjoying a few beers at the Eightmile campground resting up for tomorrow's battles with the dreaded cracks.